Top 6 Things to Do in Tarrafal, Santiago, Cape Verde
© Maxime Boudrias
Posted by Maxime Boudrias
7 min read
Updated: Jan. 23, 2025
Explore Tarrafal by discovering the best restaurants, my tips, and must-see spots for a successful stay!
After spending over a year in Tarrafal, I've truly grown attached to this place and know it like the back of my hand. In this article, I'll reveal all the local secrets and offer my best tips for fully enjoying this gem of Cape Verde.
1. Enjoy the Best Beach in Santiago
Discover Tarrafal Beach with its white sand and crystal-clear water, accessible to everyone. Whether you want to relax or party, you'll find what you're looking for. The beach is divided into two distinct areas: Mar di Baxu and the main Tarrafal Beach, each with its own charm.
Mar di Baxu Beach
Formerly known as "Presidential Beach," Mar di Baxu is perfect for those seeking some tranquility. In the afternoon, the water shines with a brilliant azure blue. You'll find platforms to sit on, a small park with trees for shade, as well as a few restaurants and an outdoor gym.
There’s also a small volcanic rock cliff, easily accessible on foot, offering a stunning view of the beach. At its end, the "Ponta de Salto" serves as a natural diving board, ideal for jumping into the deep water, swimming, and snorkeling.
Tarrafal Beach
Livelier than its little sister Mar di Baxu, Tarrafal Beach is perfect for relaxing while enjoying a festive atmosphere. You'll find sports activities like soccer and beach games, as well as bars such as the popular Kabungo, where you can grab a drink and chill on lounge chairs. You can also try jet skiing and body surfing.
At the end of the beach, towards the mountain, you'll find "Tarrafal" carved into the rock (Rocha da Praia de Tarrafal), ideal for a souvenir photo. From there, a short 10-15 minute hiking trail will lead you to a beautiful viewpoint over the bay and the main beach.
Ponta Preta Lighthouse and Natural Pools
For the more adventurous, a 1.5-hour hike (3 km) from the beach will take you to the "Farol da Ponta Preta" lighthouse and its natural pools at the base of Mount Graciosa. While it's a fantastic experience, it's important to stay cautious. There have been reports of armed thefts in this remote area with no security.
If you're up for the adventure, check with your hotel or the tourist office and hire a local guide. It's best not to bring your passport or any valuable items.
The Fish Market and Fishermen
Don't miss an early morning stroll at Tarrafal Beach. You'll witness the action as fishermen arrive with boats full of fresh fish, especially melva (a type of small tuna) that Cape Verdeans love. You might even spot shark, shellfish, and mollusks like Buzio. Locals come here to collect these catches to cook them or sell them in town, near the Tarrafal Market (Mercado Municipal).
2. Sunset Stroll
View of Fogo Volcano, located 68 km from Ponta d'Atum in Tarrafal © Maxime Boudrias
Head to Mar di Baxu Beach in the late afternoon, about an hour before sunset, and follow the coastal pedestrian path to Ponta d'Atum, where the King Fisher Village hotel is located. Along the way, you'll pass the historic Tarrafal slaughterhouse (Matadouro Municipal), and the "Placa Tarrafal" with colorful letters spelling out the city's name, framed by the beautiful backdrop of Mount Graciosa and Tarrafal Bay.
In front of the Placa Tarrafal with my dad, who came to visit me in Africa for his 72nd birthday! © Maxime Boudrias
From there, take a 15-minute walk along the coast, with the sea water crashing against the rocks and the stunning Atlantic Ocean stretching out to the horizon.
When you reach Ponta d'Atum, wait for the sunset. If the sky is clear, which is often the case, you'll see the island of Fogo and its volcano in the distance. It's breathtaking, and no photo can truly capture the beauty of being there. It's definitely worth the visit!
3. Diving and Snorkeling at Ponta d'Atum
Enjoy an exceptional snorkeling experience with underwater caves in Tarrafal.
The Dive Center offers amazing dives from the beach or by boat, featuring fascinating underwater landscapes including volcanic formations, arches, and schools of colorful fish, for just €50 per dive.
The team is friendly, the equipment is top-notch, and the on-site bar is perfect for relaxing after a dive. You can check prices and all the dive sites in detail on their website.
Whether you're a beginner or an experienced diver, this is an activity you shouldn’t miss in Tarrafal!
4. Explore the Colors of the Municipal Market
The "Mercado Municipal de Tarrafal" is like a small flea market or bazaar, with a variety of antiques, souvenirs, clothes, and accessories. You can also find services such as cobblers, phone repair shops, and tailors.
Additionally, you can buy fresh fruits and vegetables, fish, and enjoy local dishes at affordable prices in small eateries like "Parque das Merendas". Every January, there's usually a street market that adds to the market's lively atmosphere.
It's a great place to experience local life and connect with the people of Tarrafal.
5. Visit the Tarrafal Concentration Camp
The Tarrafal Concentration Camp museum is definitely worth a visit if you’re interested in historical sites. With its dark and poignant history, it recalls the horrors inflicted on political prisoners between 1936 and 1956. The camp, known as the "Camp of Slow Death", reflects the inhumane conditions endured by thousands of detainees.
The information panels provide valuable insights into this period of dictatorship. While the museum is not cheerful, it’s important for remembering what should never be repeated.
Entrance tickets are only 200 escudos, less than €2, making it an affordable and enriching visit to understand Cape Verde's history.
6. Experience the Buzz of Tarrafal's Downtown
The "Plaça de Tarrafal" is the heart of the city, bustling during festivities. You'll find the tourist information office as well as numerous establishments, restaurants, and bars nearby.
During celebrations, the square comes alive with artists, live music, dance, and sometimes traditional Batuku, unique to the island of Santiago. Many Cape Verdeans come here on weekends or just to enjoy the atmosphere after work.
In addition to its charming little park, it's a great starting point for a stroll, a family outing, or meeting up with friends.
Take the opportunity to have a drink, party, and explore downtown. Discover the colonial houses and urban art that add a historical and artistic touch to the area.
Where to Eat in Tarrafal?
Plate of octopus, vegetables, fresh salad, and flavored rice © Maxime Boudrias
La Maracujá
Meet Inès, the friendly owner. Try her menu of typical Cape Verdean dishes like grilled tuna steak or "Atum cebolado" (tuna with onions), and her delicious passion fruit "Maracujá" cocktail, which gives the restaurant its name. If you plan ahead, you can ask her to prepare a traditional cachupa rica, the national dish of Cape Verde.
Esplanada Bellini
Located a bit further from the center, it's another excellent option. Try the Cachupa Guisado (breakfast version served with a fried egg), their daily seafood plate (often esmoregal or fresh tuna), or their Strogonoff (chicken pieces in a creamy sauce, served with rice, vegetables, or homemade chips). You'll love it!
Alto Mira
For a change from Cape Verdean dishes, this is the perfect spot for excellent thin-crust Italian pizza, baked in a wood-fired oven in a cozy courtyard. Francesco, the Italian owner, is very charming and attentive. I had a great time chatting with him while enjoying the best pizza on Santiago Island!
Ponto de Encontro
The best place to eat cheaply with the locals. Their charcoal-grilled chicken, marinated with plenty of garlic, is perfect. Their fries are also top-notch.
Where to Stay in Tarrafal?
Tarrafal offers accommodations for every budget and travel style, whether you're dreaming of stunning ocean views or a cozy hostel experience. Here are my top recommendations for a memorable stay:
- King Fisher Village: The ultimate seaside retreat, perfect for a dream vacation. Enjoy the outdoor pool, sip cocktails at the bar, and take advantage of its prime location just steps from Tarrafal's beaches.
- Casa Alegria: Start each day with a rooftop breakfast and enjoy impeccable service, a peaceful location near the beaches, fast Wi-Fi, and even an on-site gym.
- Ponta Gato Residence: Take in breathtaking views of the ocean and Mount Graciosa from the terrace. Nestled in an authentic neighborhood just minutes from the beaches and town center.
- Ecodécor Rooms: Spacious rooms and unbeatable value. Alcino, your attentive host, ensures everything is perfect for your stay in Tarrafal.
- Meeting Point: The ideal choice for budget travelers. Conveniently located near the town center and beaches, this hostel offers both dorms and private rooms to suit all types of guests.
Tip: Book early to secure the best rates, especially during peak season!
Praia to Tarrafal: How to Get There
An aluguer waiting for passengers at the Sucupira market © Maxime Boudrias
By Public Transport: Aluguer (or Hiace, pronounced "yass")
Head to the Sucupira Market (Mercado de Sucupira) in the Plateau neighborhood and look for a minibus (aluguer) to take you to Tarrafal. Each vehicle (Toyota Hiace) clearly displays the destination, and the drivers will call out « Tarrafal? Tarrafal! Tarrafal!? » You simply reply « Sim! Tarrafal! (Yes, Tarrafal!) » to book your seat.
The fare is 600 CVE, which is very affordable. However, be prepared for potentially long waits (up to 2 hours), as the minibus will only depart once all seats are filled.
There are several departures each day between Praia and Tarrafal, but there are no fixed schedules. If you're lucky or arrive during peak times, such as early morning or late afternoon, you might leave in under 15 minutes.
By Taxi: From the Airport
This option is more expensive but faster, taking about 1 hour and 20 minutes. You can take a taxi directly from the airport for around 5000 CVE (€45). Don't hesitate to negotiate, as prices can be higher for tourists. Depending on the time of day (it's more expensive at night), paying up to 6000 CVE is reasonable.
If you're not in a rush and want to experience local life while saving money, take a taxi from the airport to the Sucupira Market for 1000 CVE, then catch an aluguer.
Map of Points of Interest in Tarrafal
Here's an overview of the places mentioned in this guide. Click on the markers for more details.
In Summary
Tarrafal beautifully blends paradise beaches, historical richness, and local authenticity. It's a safe, unique, and off-the-beaten-path destination that will appeal to families, couples, and solo travelers alike.
To make the most of your stay, take the time to explore the surroundings by checking out my guide to the best activities on Santiago Island.
Have a great trip and enjoy your stay!
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FAQs
How to Travel Between Cape Verde's Islands by Ferry?
Maritime transportation between the islands of Cape Verde is provided by CV Interilhas, which offers regular services between the islands of the archipelago. Each island has its own schedules, costs, and routes.
Below, you'll find all the details about crossings, ticket prices, and other important information to plan your trip.
Map of connections between Cape Verde islands © CV Interilhas
Ticket Prices for CV Interilhas
Ticket prices for ferry trips between Cape Verde's islands vary depending on the destination, time, and type of cabin. Here's an approximate price overview:
- Adult passenger: 3,000 to 5,000 CVE
- Baby (0-2 years): Free
- Car: Around 10,000 CVE
- Motorcycle and bicycle: 800 to 2,000 CVE
How to Book CV Interilhas Tickets
Online
- Visit the CV Interilhas website to purchase your tickets by credit card.
- Select your departure and arrival ports. Each island has a main port (Santo Antão, São Vicente, São Nicolau, Sal, Boavista, Maio, Santiago, Fogo, Brava).
- Choose your travel dates. The site may sometimes show limited or no availability; try adjusting the dates if needed.
- Select the number of passengers and the type of vehicle, if applicable. The form is not translated, but here are the main options:
- Não Nacional: Non-resident (13 years and up)
- Criança Não Nacional: Non-resident child (3-12 years)
- Bebé: Baby (0-2 years)
- Condutor Não Nacional: Non-resident driver
- Add any extra luggage (2 carry-on bags per person are included, 300 CVE per additional bag).
- Enter each passenger's details (name, age, passport).
- Pay by credit card (try a Visa if other cards are declined).
- Keep your email confirmation and print it if necessary. You’ll need to show your e-ticket when boarding. If you don’t receive your ticket by email after purchase, contact them at [email protected].
Note: Book online several weeks in advance to secure your spot, especially if you’re on a tight schedule. CV Interilhas recommends buying tickets at least 1.5 hours before departure.
Through agencies
Use authorized agents such as Polar (all islands except Boavista and Sal) and Navex (Boavista, Santiago, Sal, São Vicente). Payments can be made in cash (CVE).
Inter-Island Travel Times
Ferries travel at an average speed of 20 km/h. For example, a trip between the Island of Santiago and Fogo (110 km) takes 5 hours, while between Sal and Boa Vista (65 km) it takes 3 hours. Night crossings are available for some routes, saving you time and a night in a hotel.
Luggage Rules
Each passenger can carry up to two carry-on bags (max. 55x40x25 cm, 8 kg) at no extra cost. For additional luggage, add it when booking (300 CVE each).
Vehicle Transport
You can transport your car. Make sure to have all necessary documents proving ownership. For a rental vehicle, you'll need the rental contract and authorization from the agency to take the vehicle to another island.
Traveling with Pets
Pets are allowed on board under certain conditions. They must be transported in suitable containers and will be considered as checked baggage. Depending on their size, they might be considered carry-on luggage and travel with you.
Guide dogs and assistance animals travel for free and can move in passenger areas without staying in a cage. Provide all documents proving ownership and the need for the animal to get approval for boarding.
Boarding
Show a photo ID (identity card or passport) and your ticket to an agent when boarding. The name on the ID must match the one on the ticket.
Make sure to check in at least 1 hour before departure to avoid any issues.
Where to Stay Near Ports in Cape Verde
Planning an early morning departure or arriving late at night? Staying near the ports can save you both time and hassle. Here are some top accommodation options conveniently located close to the main ports across the Cape Verde archipelago:
Sal
Boa Vista
Santiago (Praia)
São Vicente (Mindelo)
Santo Antão
Pro Tip: Book ahead to secure the best deals, especially during peak season.
Learn More
For more information on terms and conditions, schedules, and routes, visit the CV Interilhas website (available in English).
You can also contact them at (+238) 350 033 0 or by email at [email protected]. Note that communications are in Portuguese. Use an online translation tool to help with exchanges (Google Translate, DeepL).
When to Visit Cape Verde?
It's normal to want to spend your vacation during the best time of the year, and you're in luck because Cape Verde enjoys at least 8 months of good weather. The other 4 months are still quite enjoyable and have the advantage of being less expensive.
Here's a detailed look at each period of the year:
The Dry Season in Cape Verde
If you plan to visit Cape Verde, whether on Santiago Island, Santo Antão, Sal, Boa Vista, or any other island in the archipelago, the best months to visit are from November to June. The weather is mild and sunny, and many festive and cultural events are organized to celebrate Cape Verdean culture and bring people together. Although the good weather can extend until mid-July, the skies might be a bit less clear at that time, but it's still pleasant as rain is very rare.
If you can, opt for early November to February, as the landscapes will be all green, which is beautiful, hence the name of the country, Cape Verde (in Portuguese, verde means "green"). For the rest of the season until August, it's still good, but you'll see how arid it gets; some places, depending on the island you're on, can become real deserts, the contrast is stunning.
The Harmattan and Sahara Sand
It's important to note that between November and March, you might encounter the impressive phenomenon of the Harmattan, which usually occurs in winter and can last a few days. The Harmattan winds sometimes reduce the clarity of the landscapes by carrying sand from the Sahara to Cape Verde, but it shouldn't stop you from fully enjoying your stay. It's actually quite fascinating!
The Rainy Season in Cape Verde
From July to late October, expect some rain and warmer, more humid weather, especially in September-October. The advantage of traveling at this time is that you'll encounter far fewer tourists and can enjoy the best spots at lower prices. But personally, I recommend waiting until November to benefit from the cooler temperatures and clearer landscapes.
Where to Buy a Local SIM Card on Santiago Island, Cape Verde?
You can buy a local SIM card at Praia Airport and at several shops, including in Assomada or Tarrafal. Your prepaid plan will be activated immediately.
For better flexibility and lower costs, it's advisable to bring an unlocked phone and insert a SIM card from one of the two local operators, Alou (CV Movel) or Unitel.
For instance, Alou's "D'Kel Bom Mês 1" plan costs less than 10 euros (700 CVE), offering unlimited calls and SMS within the Alou Mobile network and 5 GB of internet for one month. You can check all other prepaid plans on Alou's website. The site is in Portuguese, but it's straightforward to understand the prices and details.
The network is very reliable, with 4G coverage almost everywhere on the island. Even though the signal might be weaker in more remote areas, this is rare, and you'll have a good connection near the cities. Make sure your SIM card is activated properly and test it on-site to avoid any issues.
To recharge, the easiest way is to do it on-site by going to any store of your service provider. It's safer this way, as you can also recharge at ATMs, supermarkets, cafes, or other shops, but these procedures can be complex if you're not familiar with them and are only staying briefly in Cape Verde.
Have a great trip! Be sure to find out about the best activities to do on Santiago Island before you arrive to make the most of your visit!
